louisville, kentucky: lynn’s paradise cafe

Over Labor Day weekend, my six-year old daughter, Madeline, and I boarded a flight out of our town’s little regional airport and traveled to Louisville, Kentucky. We were headed to Louisville to attend the wedding of my younger cousin, Alyson. This was the second trip Madeline had taken on an airplane – the first was when she was two and a half – so she was very excited.ย  My daughter was was also thrilled to be attending her first wedding ever, because to her, weddings are all about the Disney fairytale – the flowing white dress, a beautiful princess, a handsome prince,ย  and lots of dancing.

The wedding was a gorgeous event, held in a beautiful Catholic church in downtown Louisville. Other than the fact that I failed to pack any snacks for my daughter for the long wedding ceremony, and that I mistakenly gave Madeline a heart-shaped bath salt to eat during the service (thinking it was a mint), we had a really lovely time.

But let’s talk about food, shall we? This is a food blog, after all.

Saturday morning, before the wedding, a group of us went to a relatively famous Louisville restaurant – Lynn’s Paradise Cafe for breakfast. Lynn’s Paradise Cafe is an eclectic restaurant, and the shiny sequined sign outside immediately gives that impression.

When you walk in the front door, you’re in a retail shop, filled with lamps and greeting cards and books and other knick knacks. It’s sort of overwhelming, but fun to browse. My mom and I both had our cameras, and both of us wanted to wander and take photographs rather than sit still at the table. I really wanted to be in the restaurant when it was empty, just so I could look around with no people to distract me – there were so many things hanging from the ceilings and walls to look at.

The lamp you see below is made entirely of used tea bags. Used tea bags! Crazy, right? But you know, I kind of want one now. I think it would look pretty good in my foyer. I’m just not sure I can drink that much tea in time to make one before I have grandchildren of my own, though.

There IS more to this restaurant than just the decor, although the decor takes top billing at first glance. The breakfast portions are huge. I ordered the wild mushroom scramble – eggs scrambled with Portobello and button mushrooms, baby spinach, and white cheddar, and served with a horseradish dill sour cream. For sides, I ordered the cheese grits (because I cannot resist grits) and the buttermilk biscuit.

I will admit that the wild mushroom scramble is not pretty to look at. It is not photogenic. But it was damn tasty. The horseradish dill sour cream had great flavor and really complemented the eggs and mushrooms. The cheese grits were just okay. I love my grits plain, so I don’t hold it against the grits. I hold it against the cheddar cheese, which I’m just not a fan of. The buttermilk biscuit? Oh, my. I’m in love with that biscuit. My dad thought it was too messy, and I agree that it was. This is a biscuit that you eat with a fork or break up into pieces, but I’m good with that.

If you ever find yourself in Louisville, Kentucky, you should really go to Lynn’s Paradise Cafe. Like all good Kentucky establishments, they serve bourbon, and you can even get a mint julep. Browse for a bit in the shop, look up at the very cool tea bag lamp, eat a buttermilk biscuit. You’ll be glad you did.

And wait. What’s this? That’s not food.

This, my friends, is a cave. I thought I’d end with this photo because this was part of what made my tripย  so special. In the photo is my 75 year old dad with my 6 year old daughter. My dad, my mom, my daughter, and I spent a lot of time driving around Louisville, listening to my dad’s stories of growing up in Louisville back when he was a kid.

This cave is in Cave Hill Cemetery, where my dad’s mother and father are buried. Seeing two of the most special people in my life, my dad and my daughter, checking out this cave – I loved that. It was just a moment in time, but I’m glad I got it on camera.

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61 Responses to “a taste of history: grandmother’s chess pie”

  1. Heather @ The Single Dish — September 22, 2010 @ 9:22 am

    This pie looks delicious and so easy to make! I love the short ingredient list. I will have to try this out.

  2. Macaroni Mama — September 22, 2010 @ 9:34 am

    This is a very sweet post…just like your chess pie.

  3. jana @ cherryteacakes.com — September 22, 2010 @ 10:20 am

    oh that sounds so interesting. corn meal pie….fascinating.

  4. Sasha — September 22, 2010 @ 10:58 am

    Thanks for this. I have been obsessed with Chess Pie ever since I tasted it at a friend’s wedding in TN a few years ago. She had little mini bite size versions, and I consumed a truly astounding number of them. Can’t wait to try making this!

    • mj (merry gourmet)

      mj (merry gourmet) replied: — September 22nd, 2010 @ 1:13 pm

      Sasha – I like the idea of mini versions. I may have to try that next time.

  5. Brooke — September 22, 2010 @ 11:55 am

    Thanks so much for sharing this recipe with all of us! What a treasure!

  6. Dr. Bob — September 22, 2010 @ 2:15 pm

    Beautiful post that captures a bit of your family heritage. But, why “Chess?” Was it created by Mrs. Chess? Was it consumed while playing chess by some in the South?

    • Neely replied: — September 23rd, 2010 @ 12:08 pm

      My family has also made chess pie for as long as I can remeber and the story I have been told behind the name chess pie is that someone made it and was asked what kind of pie it was and they said “It’s just pie.” And after people saying that it got changed to chess pie.

  7. Liz the Chef — September 22, 2010 @ 5:08 pm

    Your family story is as lovely as your recipe! Wish I could take food shots like you do…

  8. Margot — September 22, 2010 @ 7:01 pm

    What a great post. I love finding and making old family recipes. It is such a sense of achievement when it tastes like you remember it. Well done.

  9. Judy — September 22, 2010 @ 8:57 pm

    I have decided that I love any kind of baking that involves cornmeal. There’s just something about it that’s heavenly in muffins (cornmeal muffins are my fav) or waffles or bread. And now, chess bread! I must admit I’d never heard of it prior to today, but it looks easy enough for me to try at home this weekend. i’ve no magic fingers with baking so i hope it turns out well!

  10. jules and ruby — September 23, 2010 @ 12:45 am

    great post…i love anything that comes from Grandma’s kitchen. this one looks like a classic…and a MUST make.

  11. Xiaolu @ 6 Bittersweets — September 23, 2010 @ 12:56 am

    Looks and sounds delicious! Even sweeter that it’s your grandmother’s :).

  12. Cooking Rookie — September 23, 2010 @ 2:13 am

    What a beautiful pie, and now that there is no butter in it I can make it guilt free :-). Certainly saving this one to favorites! Thanks!

  13. Marisa — September 23, 2010 @ 4:15 am

    This sound somewhat similar to our South African milktart, which also boasts a milky, custardy filling on a pie crust. Will definitely have to try this. Thanks for sharing a part of your family history with us!

  14. Carla Duclos — September 23, 2010 @ 6:04 am

    Hi Mary,

    Just found this post in your blog by a RT from @smithbites. What a great history and recipe! I loved it! I am from Brazil so I have never heard before about the Chess pie and now I am curious to try it. ๐Ÿ™‚

    Your pictures are great!

    Just one notice, the link for the pie crust in the ingredients list is not working.

    Thanks for sharing this beautiful history and recipe with us. ๐Ÿ™‚

    • mj (merry gourmet)

      mj (merry gourmet) replied: — September 23rd, 2010 @ 8:33 am

      Carla – Thanks so much for your comment, and I’m so glad Debra from @smithbites referred you over here! I also appreciate you letting me know about the link. I’ve fixed it, so it should be working correctly now.

      • Carla Duclos replied: — September 23rd, 2010 @ 12:51 pm

        Hi Merry,

        You are welcome! I’m glad I found out your blog. I am already following you on twitter and your blog on RSS. ๐Ÿ™‚
        The link is working fine now.

  15. Lisa McBrayer — September 23, 2010 @ 7:01 am

    In addition to the story behind it, the fact that you can make a pie this yummy and rich w/o butter is awesome! I’m going to try it; w/o butter!

  16. Kate — September 23, 2010 @ 7:45 am

    I love seeing historical recipes like this. I did a post a couple of years ago on transparent pie, which is the Ohio Valley version of chess pie. However you make it, I love it – and yours is positively gorgeous!

    • mj (merry gourmet)

      mj (merry gourmet) replied: — September 23rd, 2010 @ 12:24 pm

      Kate – Your transparent pie is very similar to chess pie. Loved your post!

  17. SMITH BITES — September 23, 2010 @ 7:48 am

    Love the story, and for me, is why I cook and it’s why I blog; it’s the story of recipes like this one that connect us all. Thanks for sharing!

  18. Wendi @ Bon Appetit Hon — September 23, 2010 @ 8:06 am

    What a lovely connection you have to your family through this pie. Thanks for sharing the story (and the pie).

  19. Sara — September 23, 2010 @ 10:34 am

    I saw your recipe on FG! such a sweet post about your grandmother’s recipe! Both the recipe and the photographs are beautiful and so is your daughter! ๐Ÿ™‚

  20. Pretty. Good. Food. — September 23, 2010 @ 12:29 pm

    Mmmm, looks delicious!

  21. Susi — September 23, 2010 @ 2:26 pm

    Beautiful post and I feel special that you shared such a wonderful part of your familie’s history with your readers :o) I’ve never had chess pie before but will have to give it a try with your family heirloom!

  22. Dixie — September 24, 2010 @ 2:02 am

    Mmmmm, simple, sweet (no pun intended) and made with basic kitchen staples, except for the pie crust. If you claim its better then pecan pie well, I’m gonna have to try it.

  23. Pingback: Tweets that mention a taste of history: grandmotherโ€™s chess pie | the merry gourmet -- Topsy.com

  24. Sarah@buttered-up.com — September 24, 2010 @ 8:24 am

    This looks amazing. I can totally feel the texture of this already. ๐Ÿ˜€

  25. Mindy — September 27, 2010 @ 10:36 am

    I remember your talking about this on twitter! I’m so glad you posted this, and what an amazing history.

  26. ELBSeattle — October 1, 2010 @ 5:13 am

    My family has had Chess pie for Thanksgiving as long as I can remember. My mom is from the hills of Kentucky, and she grew up with the pie. Whenever I bake a Chess pie I pull out the recipe my sister wrote out for me almost 30 years ago. Our recipe differs from yours in that our version does include a stick of butter. I also use cider vinegar rather than white vinegar. Double strength vanilla (you can order it from the Spice House in Evanston Illinois – it is worth every penny) makes the chess pie doubly good. I also grate a little bit of nutmeg into the filling, which adds a nice warm flavor. Finally – I’ve found that making a foil collar to cover the crust helps keep the crust from burning. I think my recipe bakes at a higher temp than yours, so perhaps this hasn’t been a danger w/ your recipe.

    • mj (merry gourmet)

      mj (merry gourmet) replied: — October 1st, 2010 @ 8:10 am

      This recipe originally called for a stick of butter, but silly me put it in the microwave to melt and never took it out! Turns out, the butter wasn’t critical to the recipe, and I actually loved it without the butter. I’m interested in trying your version with the cider vinegar and nutmeg, though. I’ve not had a problem with the crust burning, probably due to the lower cooking temperature, as you mention.

  27. omes — October 1, 2010 @ 6:27 am

    looks delicious!
    what kind of vinegar do you recommend using?
    i think i have 4 different kinds of vinegar sitting in my kitchen, so i’m not sure which one i should use.

    • mj (merry gourmet)

      mj (merry gourmet) replied: — October 1st, 2010 @ 8:08 am

      I used white vinegar in this recipe, but as another commenter (ELBSeattle) pointed out, cider vinegar works well, too.

  28. Barbara @Modern Comfort Food — October 1, 2010 @ 5:40 pm

    This is such a beautiful story and such a beautiful pie too. A similar chess pie was my grandmother’s signature dish – using home grown eggs, milk, and cornmeal – and I so loved it. But it’s been years since I made it. Many thanks for the reminder of this Southern classic.

  29. judy — November 26, 2010 @ 7:15 pm

    Thanks for the recipe. Made this yesterday. Since it was Thanksgiving, I added half of the eggs back in. Yum, and the crust was delicious as well.

    • mj (merry gourmet)

      mj (merry gourmet) replied: — November 28th, 2010 @ 2:13 pm

      Thanks for the feedback, Judy! I’m glad to hear it worked out well.

  30. Ann Mc — November 28, 2010 @ 1:22 pm

    What an endearing family story! This story relates just how special food can be. It nourishes our soul as well as our body. It allows us to share those before us so that they may live on for generations to come. What a tribute to a family! Thanks for sharing this it was very touching.

    • mj (merry gourmet)

      mj (merry gourmet) replied: — November 28th, 2010 @ 2:13 pm

      Ann – You’re so right about food nourishing the soul as well as the body. Thanks for stopping by!

  31. Pingback: Impossible Pie: A Riff on the Classic Chess Pie | Eat Boutique - handmade food giftbox, homemade, homespun, gift basket, food that hugs you back

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  33. PJ — October 19, 2011 @ 2:38 pm

    Help! I tried this recipe exactly as you published it (without the butter) and it was not thick and creamy on the inside. It was a bit watery on the very bottom and the custard was not holding together very well. I cooked it as long as you indicated. And then left it in the oven (turned off) until it was almost completely cooled. What did I do wrong! I tried this recipe as a test for a contest this weekend.

    • Merry-Jennifer

      Merry-Jennifer replied: — October 19th, 2011 @ 2:41 pm

      Hi PJ,

      It’s hard for me to say exactly what happened in this case. I wonder if, because the custard didn’t set up, maybe your oven temperature was actually cooler than you thought it was. Do you have an oven thermometer that you could test your oven temp with?

  34. PJ — October 19, 2011 @ 3:04 pm

    I don’t have one on hand but can get one. Do you really leave it in the oven for over an hour – almost 2 until it completely cools?

    • Merry-Jennifer

      Merry-Jennifer replied: — October 19th, 2011 @ 6:54 pm

      I think the time will vary. I leave my chess pie in the oven until it’s mostly cool, but it doesn’t have to reach room temperature. You can take it out sooner, but it may crack – which is really no big deal.

  35. Pingback: PieQuest: Chess Pie vs. Buttermilk (Chess) Pie | Latter Day Woman Magazine

  36. Stephanie Loomis — November 22, 2011 @ 8:23 pm

    I make an authentic chess pie (well, I was told it was authentic my an 83 year old neighbor from southern Mississippi–she said it tasted like her grandmother’s). Your recipe is a little simpler, and if the butter isn’t missed, I’m going to try it out at Christmas! (I’ve already done 3 for Thanksgiving, including one with a gluten free crust.)

    thanks for sharing the personal history ๐Ÿ™‚

  37. Stephanie Loomis — November 22, 2011 @ 8:25 pm

    oh–and I make tart-sizes by using a muffin tin as baking dish. Works beautifully.

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  39. Pam bishop — April 28, 2012 @ 9:41 am

    I followed directions and left in oven to cool, but it deflated in middle! What do you think happened?

    • Merry-Jennifer

      Merry-Jennifer replied: — April 28th, 2012 @ 9:59 am

      Pam, I’m so sorry this happened to your pie! I wish I could tell you what happened, but it’s too hard to guess without being there with you in your kitchen while you baked it. Is your oven calibrated and heating to the right temperature? Perhaps it needed a bit more time in your oven, with the oven still on?

  40. Pat Whitney — October 1, 2012 @ 4:00 pm

    You show a picture of white distilled vinegar but I can tell you they were all using cider vinegar way back when. I’m 79 next month and my Grandma had a recipe for chess pie and for vinegar pie and she never went any further south than Long Island, NY.

  41. Teresa Lemon — October 16, 2012 @ 4:34 pm

    Was reading your recipe, and thinking I would make it. Thought it very funny, that you left the butter in the microwave, and how in the world could it taste as good without it.
    Made a vinegar pie off of a recipe that I got from the television (not yours, not yet cause this one has pecans in it, and husband wanted a pecan pie, and I wanted chess) anyway, it was awesome.
    Made two, and took one to my sister, while I was at her house telling her about your recipe, I could not recall putting the butter in my pie. Got home, and sure enough, the butter was still in the microwave ๐Ÿ™‚
    Thinking that it is the butter that causes them not to set up so well?????

    Tried your recipe (without the butter) and I am in awe, it is GREAT!!!!! My mother was from Tennessee, and passed away before I could get her recipe, and now, thanks to you, I believe I have it ๐Ÿ™‚

  42. Teresa Lemon — October 16, 2012 @ 4:36 pm

    Almost forgot, took the previous lady’s advice and used apple cider vinegar, and do believe it makes a difference in the flavor…..just sayin.

    • Merry-Jennifer

      Merry-Jennifer replied: — October 16th, 2012 @ 5:17 pm

      Thank you so much for your feedback, Teresa! So funny about the butter! ๐Ÿ™‚

  43. Kelly Houston — November 22, 2012 @ 1:09 am

    How nice of you to share this generation after generation recipe love oldies but goodies! Thanks so much for bring a new tradition to my family!

  44. P.A.T. Hunt — November 27, 2012 @ 12:34 pm

    Our daughter’s future in-laws joined us for Thanksgiving and they brought a chess pie, made from Grandma Polly’s recipe of North Carolina. Out on the East End of Long Island, NY we never heard of such a pie. This one was flavored with lemon and absolutely luscious! I so glad my search to find out more brought me to your website with your family history of the joy of chess pie making and eating.

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  48. bettey — July 10, 2016 @ 11:29 am

    This is my first time making chess pie and it looks exactly like your picture. It is a delicious pie, albeit too sweet for my liking. I knew from the ingredients that it would be a sweeter than usual pie, but I wanted to try it anyway. I think the addition of one or two tablespoons of butter might cut the sweetness a bit, but as you say, it isn’t necessary. I’m surprised you recommend a deep dish 9 inch pie plate as there is barely enough filling for a standard 9 inch Pyrex pie plate. I think you would be left with a good bit of exposed crust in a larger pie plate given the amount of filling. Thanks for the recipe. I used my easy to make canola oil crust recipe which is the perfect complement to this pie. I agree that it would go great with a cup of coffee or a cold glass of milk.

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